Saturday, July 25, 2009

Reflection on cathedrals and worship

The view of Christ Church Cathedral from our hotel
room window, drawn by my fabulously talented wife.

When some were speaking about the temple, how it was adorned with beautiful stones and gifts dedicated to God, he said, "As for these things that you see, the days will come when not one stone will be left upon another; all will be thrown down." (Luke 21:5-6)

I must admit that my first reaction upon entering St. Patrick's was a slight turning in my stomach. An admission-paying visitor enters the cathedral at the rear of the nave and is greeted by the gift shop. The gift shop features some very nice books, recordings, and postcards, among the bright green Irish clover-adorned trinkets. I told Erin I was having a temple money-changers moment. She told me to get over it.

Our guide said St. Patrick's Cathedral and Christ Church Cathedral, up the street, receive their primary funding from tourist admission and gift shop revenue. This is reportedly necessary because they receive no funding from the Government of Ireland. Wow. That would certainly complete the upside-down picture: if the church's primary relationship with its constituents was to drain taxpayer resources. Does the building exist to serve people, or people to serve the building?

I began to think about these gorgeous spaces, built to enhance worship by providing a glimpse of heaven on earth. At this, they are very effective. I'm sure they cost incredible sums to build, but they were built in a day when every citizen was at least a nominal member of the Church, so all of Ireland was solicited for contributions. When St. Patrick's Cathedral found itself in desperate need of restoration in the 1800s, the extravagantly wealthy Benjamin Guinness stepped up to the plate (or the pitch, I suppose, in cricket country). Now, the buildings cost incredible sums to preserve and maintain. And, of course, it would be tragic to neglect them. They are truly treasures. But they're earthly treasures, designed by human architects and built of stones and glass. Ecclesiastes reminds us that all this toil is ultimately meaningless, as nothing built by human hands will last forever. How glad I am that God's heavenly kingdom will have no roofs to replace, no boilers to repair.

It appears that these cathedrals have built their mission around faithfulness as stewards of their marvelous facilities and heritage. This is inarguably important, but we find ourselves in a time when it's already difficult to keep the main thing the main thing. By becoming slaves to buildings, has the church made idols for itself? "The church" is so central to the culture of Dublin and Ireland, but so much of the population remains unreached by the saving Gospel. Maybe God will send another St. Patrick to preach His truth to a needy people. St. Bono has a nice ring to it.

So I stand in the darkened nave of St. Patrick's Cathedral with all of this on my mind and in my heart. But now, it's time to worship with a choir of believers. As we process from the rear of the nave, Andy plays an improvisation that begins somewhat ominously. But we can see the warmly-lit chancel ahead of us, with tall candles glowing from the choir stalls, where our place has been prepared. As we continue down the aisle, there's a real sense of walking out of darkness, into light. We arrive in the chancel, and it feels fitting. There is a meeting of the music we sing and the space for which it was intended. But more importantly, there is a sense of appropriateness to worship in a place purposed for worship for over 800 years. It is meet, right, and good. We are worshipers. We worship the living Christ together—this, we know how to do.

From the Book of Common Prayer:
Gracious Father, we pray for thy holy Catholic Church. Fill it with all truth, in all truth will all peace. Where it is corrupt, purify it; where it is in error, direct it; where in any thing it is amiss, reform it. Where it is right, strengthen it; where it is in want, provide for it; where it is divided, reunite it; for the sake of Jesus Christ thy Son our Savior. Amen.

Audio - Fanfare in D (Lemmens)

Dan McKinley at the console of St Patrick's Cathedral, playing (if that's the word) Fanfare in D by Jean-Nicolas Lemmens. Strap yourself in.

Download mp3 (2.4mb)

Views of the cathedral

This evening I was locked in the Cathedral (really) with director Dan McKinley and organist Andy Kotylo. With the visitors gone, I was free to photograph the Cathedral in the soft westering light, while listening to the scintillating sounds of their final practice session. Tomorrow, Eucharist and Evensong...the biggest test of the week.

'Trad' session at Cobblestones

A 'trad' session is an extemporaneous expression of traditional Irish music, typically done unamplified, always done on acoustic instruments. The lead starts a musical phrase, either a known tune or a made-up fragment. The musicians begin figuring it out, and join in when they've got it. In the first piece, our own Fred Shepard plays the traditional 'Off she goes' on the high flute, and then off they go, concertina, banjo, concertina, accordion and fiddle, riffing for two minutes.

Download mp3 (2mb)


In the next example, a tune is introduced and you can hear the first tentative attempts as the musicians begin to acquire the tune, and it begins to roll. At about 2 minutes two new musicians arrive (the music thins briefly as the fiddlers stop playing to make room). By three minutes, the new musicians have unpacked another concertina and another banjo, begin to tune, and by 3:45, they are up to speed. (at the end, the orchestra numbers three fiddles, two banjos, two concertinas, an accordion and Fred's high flute.)

Download mp3
(6.5mb)

Images from Dublin

Here are some of the sights and sites that have caught my eye. Some of these are a look backstage from Dublin's movie-set beauty.

Audio - the organ at St Patrick's

Two pieces performed by one of our assisting artists, Andrea Boudra. The Messiaen is contemplative, and hauntingly beautiful; the Mulet is in the style of the great French organ Toccatas. These pieces exploit the full range of the instrument's tonal characteristics of the instrument, as well as leveraging the acoustics of the cathedral space.

Priere apres la communion
(Prayer after Communion)
Olivier Messiaen, performed by Andrea Boudra
Download mp3 (8.6 mb)

Tu es Petra (Thou art Peter [Rock])
Henri Mulet, performed by Andrea Boudra
Download mp3 (5.5mb)

Thursday, July 23, 2009

Audio - Exultate Deo (Scarlatti)

The anthem Exultate Deo, by Antonio Scarlatti. Recorded July 23 2009 at St Patrick's Cathedral, Dublin, by the choir of Christ Church under the direction of Dan McKinley.

Exultate Deo (2.1mb)

Where the Book of Kells came from

On Wednesday, a scheduled break before the final sprint, the ensemble toured Trim and Kells in County Meath.


This is the Christian priory at Columbkill in Kells. The Book of Kells would have been created here, according to Mrs. Campbell, the elderly local woman in the photo. It would probably have been drawn outside, as it is quite dark inside. The 'scriptorium' is in a hidden room in the apex of the building, which slept three.

Trim Castle
Earlier, there was a trip to Trim in County Meath, where there are remains of a large, Ivanhoe-scale castle. Below are the battlements of the curtain wall, which surrounds the massive keep with its 11-foot thick walls.





Audio - Gibbons Magnificat and Nunc Dimittis

Recorded Monday, July 20 2009 at St Patrick's Cathedral in Dublin, by the Choir of Christ Church directed by Dan McKinley

by Orlando Gibbons
Magnificat (2.5mb)
Nunc Dimittis (1.8mb)

The Irish economy is in the tank


It would appear that Ireland's economy is back to normal - the bedrock foundation of which appears to be the production and consumption of, for the most part, Guinness.

Wednesday, July 22, 2009

Two views of the Cathedral



South transept, viewed from the choir school / grammar school close. (Hey, can I help it if they forgot to lock the gate?)




St Patrick's Cathedral lies just outside the wall of the old city, seen at right. The choir school close is behind the wall at left. One of the cathedral's many spires visible in the distance.

Audio - Sicut Cervus (Palestrina)

,
The Choir of Christ Church at the St Patrick's Cathedral, Dublin singing Palestrina's Sicut Cervus (Psalm 42, Like as the hart desireth the waterbrooks). July 21 2009


Download mp3 (link)
Sicut cervus desiderat ad fontes aquarum, ita desiderat anima mea ad te, Deus.
Like as the hart desireth the water brooks, so longeth my soul after thee, O God



Tuesday, July 21, 2009

This trip has been glorious. I have never traveled much, and this is my first trip to anywhere in Europe. I'm stopping everywhere for pictures (my poor, patient companions!), some of which will get downloaded to the blog within the next couple of days.

Singing in the cathedral is amazing! Many, many thousands of people have worshiped in this space over the course of more than 800 years. As we were processing up the aisle at the beginning of our first evensong Monday night, I felt the beauty and the majesty of the space. In the choir stalls, there are candles on either side of each space that a chorister sits at. The candles make sense in a way that they never have for me in American churches. Here, they LOOK like torches; the cathedral gets the bulk of its light from the stained glass windows and these candles, with some electric lighting supplementing them during the service, but not much.

I don't have the words to describe the sound in the space. The architecture magnifies and reverberates the sound, and creates something truly beautiful. When I got hold of the earphones tonight after the service, I looked at David Maurand and said, "This is us???" Some of the music from tonight's evensong will be posted on the blog tomorrow; please look for it. Our congregation has heard tonight's anthem MANY times over the years, but it didn't sound like this!

The people have been very friendly here, and I've enjoyed sharing our reason for being here with some that I've met along the way, and inviting them to the cathedral for services.

The cafe is about to close, and so shall I; I'll drop in again later in the week.

Robin

Audio - Praise Ye The Lord (Titcomb)

,From Monday's evensong at St Patrick's Cathedral in Dublin, American composer Everett Titcomb's Praise Ye The Lord. Performed by the Choir of Christ Church, under the direction of Dan McKinley, accompanied by organist Andy Kotylo. (7/20/09).

Download mp3 (4.7mb)

Monday, July 20, 2009

Impressions from the Temple Bar

Four photos taken from the Temple Bar district in Dublin. Yes, the top photo, two modern buildings, is in the Temple Bar. Ancient and modern jostle side by each, especially in here in the 'old city' environs.











Sunday, July 19, 2009

Plane flight, Saturday July 18


Many of us were in the same area of the plane for the flight over -- which was great fun, but confused some of the other passengers, since there were about 30 of us.

On the bus from the airport to the hotel, our guide recommended ways to keep the group trip running smoothly (i.e. everyone be on time!) and answered lots of specific questions.

Beer in Dublin, day 1



Dublin is definitely a city which takes its beer seriously.

Itinerary: Monday 20th July, Day Two

Full breakfast arranged from 7.30am

Guided bus tour arranged meet at the front of the hotel at 9.00am.
(tour approx. 2-3hrs with stops)
(do remember to pack vestments and music)

Dublin
Even in 140 A.D. Ptolemy observed that Eblana was a place of note. Ptolemy refers to the river Liffey as Oboka, meaning a delta. It was however not until 840 A.D. that Norse sea rovers landed here and built a base for their maritime expeditions that the area really began to develop as a town. The history of the area is really tied to the history of Ireland, never really settled, just like the name, the Irish called it Duibhlinn, the Norse called it Dyfflin, and the Anglo Normans Dublinne from which the present name derives.

A city steeped in history, it as fine wide streets, squares and parks with wonderful examples of Georgian architecture.

With the tour completed by approx. 11.45am., drop group with vestments and music at St Patrick’s cathedral.

Time to see the vergers and store music and vestments.

St Patrick’s Cathedral
Dedicated in 1192, the cathedral was originally built by the Norman, archbishop Comyn. This early Norman church was rebuilt in the first half of the 13th century, the building we see today.

Many interesting aspects to see, including the medieval chapter house door with an hole in it dating from 1492. It gives rise to the English phrase "chancing your arm".

The earl of Kildare cut the hole and through it stretched out his arm to grasp the hand of his enemy the earl of Ormond. By taking the initiative peace was restored between them and ever since the door as been known as the door of reconciliation.

Handel’s Messiah received its first performance in Dublin in 1742 sung by the combined choirs of St Patrick’s & Christ Church Cathedral`s.

After arranging storage of vestments etc coach will return group to the Harding Hotel, leaving St Patrick’s at approx. 12.30pm.

Lunch own arrangements

All choristers return to St Patrick’s cathedral by 3.30pm. Time to arrange rehearsals etc. Rehearsal in the cathedral choir stalls 4.00pm – 5.30pm.

Evensong service at 5.45pm

On completion of the service all choristers return to the hotel. Short walk approx. 8/10 minutes.

Evening meal own arrangements