Letter from Eriko

This is a letter Eriko wrote to the friends who help support her trip with the choir.
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Dear Friends

How are you? On Monday the 27th I returned from a most wonderful 8 day stay in Dublin. Thank you very much for your financial contribution, which allowed me to participate in the choir tour. Thank you for your prayer support for me and for the choir and its director.

We sang well at all of the services. The director, Mr. McKinley, conducted marvelously, played some fantastic postludes on the organ and our guest organist from the U.S., Andy, adjusted smoothly to playing in the cathedral and accompanying our singing.

It was a good thing for me to take a summer course in the World History through community college prior to this trip. It gave me an overview of what has taken place in Europe during the medieval era and what roles Christianity played in the western world. Ireland, a country that I had little interest in the past, was a place of learning and worship for many faithful monks and rich monastic culture flourished in the country, which produced beautiful Christian arts and architecture.

I was also thankful that I had taken a two-day class on European medieval art in Tokyo since I could recognize and appreciate some distinct Celtic patterns and designs that were used in the church buildings and religious objects.

I arrived in the morning of Sunday the 19th, just in time to change my clothes at the hotel and walk 10 minutes to The National Cathedral and Collegiate church of St. Patrick. This stone Cathedral, which was built in the early thirteen century, was the oldest and the most beautiful and dignified Cathedral that I have ever stepped in. The morning light through many stained glass windows with intricate designs, filled the interior of the building. There is a fee to enter the building unless you are attending the worship services. It reminded me of the famous Buddhist temples in Japan that collect fees from the visitors for the maintenance of the building. I, along with several choir members, attended the 11:15am Sung Eucharist. The order of the service was simpler than I expected it to be and the sermon was short. Unlike any of the church services that I have attended in my life, it felt cold. The rich sound of organ and the music by the choir, who sang a Psalm, an anthem and several hymns, was the element that breathed life into the cathedral and lifted my heart to God.

After a bus tour of Dublin on Monday morning, we returned to the Cathedral for rehearsal and sang at the 5:45pm evensong. Tour buses spit out large numbers of tourists in front of the Cathedral all day long. Our choir blended into the scene of Cathedral, and the tourists were taking photos of us rehearsing and listening to our singing. I was glad for the many people who heard the beautiful music during the rehearsal. The evensongs were held five times during our stay, in which we sang five different settings of the Song of Mary (Magnificat) and Song of Simeon (Nunc Dimittis) along with five psalms and five anthems. For the Sunday morning Eucharist, we sang Hassler’s Missa Secunda; a psalm; an anthem; and hymns.

It is difficult to gather words to describe an experience in which I have given all of my heart, and the only reflex I get from trying to remember the musical experience is the streaming of tears down my cheeks. The St. Patrick’s Cathedral is “a treasure of Ireland that contributed much to Irish life throughout its long history”(Cathedral pamphlet). The Cathedral choir, combined with a choir from Christ Church of Dublin, sang Handel’s Messiah’s first performance in Dublin, in 1742. Jonathan Swift, the writer and satirist, was once the dean of the Cathedral, and his epitaph, bust, and his death mask, along with other memorabilia, are displayed there. We sang in the beautiful choir cloister, where many candles were lit in front of us. Above our heads hung the bright colored banners and hatchments of the Knights of Saint Patrick, a chivalric order founded by King George III in 1783.

Being able to praise God through singing at St. Patrick’s was a privilege beyond my wildest imagination. A Japanese who migrated temporarily to Massachusetts, accepted at an Anglican choir of the highest caliber, singing at evensongs and at the Sung Eucharist in a historic Cathedral in Dublin, Ireland? Who could have planned such a thing? Giving an musical offering to God did not make me holier, but has given me a sense of awareness that I, along with countless numbers of Christians all over the world, am carrying a small flame of God, which proclaims His plan of salvation for humankind. However glorious the architecture might be, without people praying and praising God from their heart, stone Cathedrals cannot reveal God and His character.

The choir members had ample time for sightseeing during the week since we came well prepared musically. The director and the organists, for whom I am grateful, continued to fine-tune the details of the services at the Cathedral. I enjoyed visiting the National Gallery to see Caravaggio’s The Taking of Christ, the Chester Beatty Museum to see beautiful paintings from Mughal Dynasty, scrolls of The Tale of Genji, and one of the earliest Gospel manuscripts, and having lunches at the museum café. It was also enjoyable to take a stroll and observe the Dubliners in the serene St. Stephen's Green, a beautiful park with a large pond and a water fountain dotted with tastefully planned flower gardens. We enjoyed taking a bus tour to a village of Trim where we visited an ancient medieval castle, and the town of Kells where The Book of Kells was believed to be written. The Book of Kells is a beautifully illustrated codex of the Gospel Book, which was created by the monks who lived in the town sometime during the 7th century. It is displayed in the library of the Trinity College in Dublin. I am intrigued with the fantastical design and the brilliant color that characterizes this amazing book.

Another member of the choir, Ms. Bolshaw, and I, ventured out to a fishing town called Howth, by riding an efficient train system, Dart. We were blessed with gorgeous weather and spent a day peeking in the fish markets, visiting the ruins of an abbey, hiking through the hilly terrain to enjoy the magnificent ocean views, and ended the day with delicious fish stew and mussels steamed in garlic and white wine.

I hope to continue praising the Lord and proclaiming the Gospel through music. I also look forward to yet another opportunity to travel and see how God has worked and is working in different countries. Thank you again for your generosity and interest in my life.


Blessing to you.


Eriko Houlette

7/21 practice video on Utube (from a tourist!)

(From Dan McKinley)

One of our choir members found this. Apparently a tourist at St. Patrick’s recorded and posted about a minute of us rehearsing the Gloria Patri (Glory be to the Father and to the Son and to the Holy Ghost, as it was in the beginning, is now, and ever shall be, world without end. Amen.) of the George Dyson Magnificat (My soul doth magnify the Lord…) from Tuesday afternoon, July 21.

Photos - the Rock of Cashel and the Ring of Kerry

Audio - Agnus Dei (Hans Leo Hassler)

At communion, the choir removes to the Lady Chapel, which is beyond the altar, at the east end of the church. This reverberant room is a particularly beautiful space in which to sing, with lush acoustics. Here we sang Hans Leo Hassler's Agnus Dei.

Download mp3 (3.2mb)

In the photo at the masthead of this blog, the Lady Chapel would be to the far right, obscured by the trees. What you can see is the east end, where the chancel (choir and sanctuary [altar]) are located. In this winter view, the Lady Chapel can be seen to the far right.

Reflection on cathedrals and worship

The view of Christ Church Cathedral from our hotel

room window, drawn by my fabulously talented wife.

When some were speaking about the temple, how it was adorned with beautiful stones and gifts dedicated to God, he said, "As for these things that you see, the days will come when not one stone will be left upon another; all will be thrown down." (Luke 21:5-6)

I must admit that my first reaction upon entering St. Patrick's was a slight turning in my stomach. An admission-paying visitor enters the cathedral at the rear of the nave and is greeted by the gift shop. The gift shop features some very nice books, recordings, and postcards, among the bright green Irish clover-adorned trinkets. I told Erin I was having a temple money-changers moment. She told me to get over it.

Our guide said St. Patrick's Cathedral and Christ Church Cathedral, up the street, receive their primary funding from tourist admission and gift shop revenue. This is reportedly necessary because they receive no funding from the Government of Ireland. Wow. That would certainly complete the upside-down picture: if the church's primary relationship with its constituents was to drain taxpayer resources. Does the building exist to serve people, or people to serve the building?

I began to think about these gorgeous spaces, built to enhance worship by providing a glimpse of heaven on earth. At this, they are very effective. I'm sure they cost incredible sums to build, but they were built in a day when every citizen was at least a nominal member of the Church, so all of Ireland was solicited for contributions. When St. Patrick's Cathedral found itself in desperate need of restoration in the 1800s, the extravagantly wealthy Benjamin Guinness stepped up to the plate (or the pitch, I suppose, in cricket country). Now, the buildings cost incredible sums to preserve and maintain. And, of course, it would be tragic to neglect them. They are truly treasures. But they're earthly treasures, designed by human architects and built of stones and glass. Ecclesiastes reminds us that all this toil is ultimately meaningless, as nothing built by human hands will last forever. How glad I am that God's heavenly kingdom will have no roofs to replace, no boilers to repair.

It appears that these cathedrals have built their mission around faithfulness as stewards of their marvelous facilities and heritage. This is inarguably important, but we find ourselves in a time when it's already difficult to keep the main thing the main thing. By becoming slaves to buildings, has the church made idols for itself? "The church" is so central to the culture of Dublin and Ireland, but so much of the population remains unreached by the saving Gospel. Maybe God will send another St. Patrick to preach His truth to a needy people. St. Bono has a nice ring to it.

So I stand in the darkened nave of St. Patrick's Cathedral with all of this on my mind and in my heart. But now, it's time to worship with a choir of believers. As we process from the rear of the nave, Andy plays an improvisation that begins somewhat ominously. But we can see the warmly-lit chancel ahead of us, with tall candles glowing from the choir stalls, where our place has been prepared. As we continue down the aisle, there's a real sense of walking out of darkness, into light. We arrive in the chancel, and it feels fitting. There is a meeting of the music we sing and the space for which it was intended. But more importantly, there is a sense of appropriateness to worship in a place purposed for worship for over 800 years. It is meet, right, and good. We are worshipers. We worship the living Christ together—this, we know how to do.

From the Book of Common Prayer:

Gracious Father, we pray for thy holy Catholic Church. Fill it with all truth, in all truth will all peace. Where it is corrupt, purify it; where it is in error, direct it; where in any thing it is amiss, reform it. Where it is right, strengthen it; where it is in want, provide for it; where it is divided, reunite it; for the sake of Jesus Christ thy Son our Savior. Amen.

Audio - Fanfare in D (Lemmens)

Dan McKinley at the console of St Patrick's Cathedral, playing (if that's the word) Fanfare in D by Jean-Nicolas Lemmens. Strap yourself in.

Download mp3 (2.4mb)

Views of the cathedral

This evening I was locked in the Cathedral (really) with director Dan McKinley and organist Andy Kotylo. With the visitors gone, I was free to photograph the Cathedral in the soft westering light, while listening to the scintillating sounds of their final practice session. Tomorrow, Eucharist and Evensong...the biggest test of the week.

'Trad' session at Cobblestones

A 'trad' session is an extemporaneous expression of traditional Irish music, typically done unamplified, always done on acoustic instruments. The lead starts a musical phrase, either a known tune or a made-up fragment. The musicians begin figuring it out, and join in when they've got it. In the first piece, our own Fred Shepard plays the traditional 'Off she goes' on the high flute, and then off they go, concertina, banjo, concertina, accordion and fiddle, riffing for two minutes.

Download mp3 (2mb)


In the next example, a tune is introduced and you can hear the first tentative attempts as the musicians begin to acquire the tune, and it begins to roll. At about 2 minutes two new musicians arrive (the music thins briefly as the fiddlers stop playing to make room). By three minutes, the new musicians have unpacked another concertina and another banjo, begin to tune, and by 3:45, they are up to speed. (at the end, the orchestra numbers three fiddles, two banjos, two concertinas, an accordion and Fred's high flute.)

Download mp3 (6.5mb)

Images from Dublin

Here are some of the sights and sites that have caught my eye. Some of these are a look backstage from Dublin's movie-set beauty.

Audio - the organ at St Patrick's

Two pieces performed by one of our assisting artists, Andrea Boudra. The Messiaen is contemplative, and hauntingly beautiful; the Mulet is in the style of the great French organ Toccatas. These pieces exploit the full range of the instrument's tonal characteristics of the instrument, as well as leveraging the acoustics of the cathedral space.

Priere apres la communion (Prayer after Communion)
Olivier Messiaen, performed by Andrea Boudra
Download mp3 (8.6 mb)

Tu es Petra (Thou art Peter [Rock])
Henri Mulet, performed by Andrea Boudra
Download mp3 (5.5mb)

Audio - Exultate Deo (Scarlatti)

The anthem Exultate Deo, by Antonio Scarlatti. Recorded July 23 2009 at St Patrick's Cathedral, Dublin, by the choir of Christ Church under the direction of Dan McKinley.

Exultate Deo (2.1mb)

Where the Book of Kells came from

On Wednesday, a scheduled break before the final sprint, the ensemble toured Trim and Kells in County Meath.


This is the Christian priory at Columbkill in Kells. The Book of Kells would have been created here, according to Mrs. Campbell, the elderly local woman in the photo. It would probably have been drawn outside, as it is quite dark inside. The 'scriptorium' is in a hidden room in the apex of the building, which slept three.

Trim Castle
Earlier, there was a trip to Trim in County Meath, where there are remains of a large, Ivanhoe-scale castle. Below are the battlements of the curtain wall, which surrounds the massive keep with its 11-foot thick walls.

Audio - Gibbons Magnificat and Nunc Dimittis

Recorded Monday, July 20 2009 at St Patrick's Cathedral in Dublin, by the Choir of Christ Church directed by Dan McKinley

by Orlando Gibbons
Magnificat (2.5mb)
Nunc Dimittis (1.8mb)

The Irish economy is in the tank

It would appear that Ireland's economy is back to normal - the bedrock foundation of which appears to be the production and consumption of, for the most part, Guinness.

Two views of the Cathedral

South transept, viewed from the choir school / grammar school close. (Hey, can I help it if they forgot to lock the gate?)

St Patrick's Cathedral lies just outside the wall of the old city, seen at right. The choir school close is behind the wall at left. One of the cathedral's many spires visible in the distance.

Audio - Sicut Cervus (Palestrina)

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The Choir of Christ Church at the St Patrick's Cathedral, Dublin singing Palestrina's Sicut Cervus (Psalm 42, Like as the hart desireth the waterbrooks). July 21 2009


Download mp3 (link)
Sicut cervus desiderat ad fontes aquarum, ita desiderat anima mea ad te, Deus.
Like as the hart desireth the water brooks, so longeth my soul after thee, O God

This trip has been glorious. I have never traveled much, and this is my first trip to anywhere in Europe. I'm stopping everywhere for pictures (my poor, patient companions!), some of which will get downloaded to the blog within the next couple of days.

Singing in the cathedral is amazing! Many, many thousands of people have worshiped in this space over the course of more than 800 years. As we were processing up the aisle at the beginning of our first evensong Monday night, I felt the beauty and the majesty of the space. In the choir stalls, there are candles on either side of each space that a chorister sits at. The candles make sense in a way that they never have for me in American churches. Here, they LOOK like torches; the cathedral gets the bulk of its light from the stained glass windows and these candles, with some electric lighting supplementing them during the service, but not much.

I don't have the words to describe the sound in the space. The architecture magnifies and reverberates the sound, and creates something truly beautiful. When I got hold of the earphones tonight after the service, I looked at David Maurand and said, "This is us???" Some of the music from tonight's evensong will be posted on the blog tomorrow; please look for it. Our congregation has heard tonight's anthem MANY times over the years, but it didn't sound like this!

The people have been very friendly here, and I've enjoyed sharing our reason for being here with some that I've met along the way, and inviting them to the cathedral for services.

The cafe is about to close, and so shall I; I'll drop in again later in the week.

Robin

Audio - Praise Ye The Lord (Titcomb)

,From Monday's evensong at St Patrick's Cathedral in Dublin, American composer Everett Titcomb's Praise Ye The Lord. Performed by the Choir of Christ Church, under the direction of Dan McKinley, accompanied by organist Andy Kotylo. (7/20/09).

Download mp3 (4.7mb)

Impressions from the Temple Bar

Four photos taken from the Temple Bar district in Dublin. Yes, the top photo, two modern buildings, is in the Temple Bar. Ancient and modern jostle side by each, especially in here in the 'old city' environs.

Plane flight, Saturday July 18

Many of us were in the same area of the plane for the flight over -- which was great fun, but confused some of the other passengers, since there were about 30 of us.

On the bus from the airport to the hotel, our guide recommended ways to keep the group trip running smoothly (i.e. everyone be on time!) and answered lots of specific questions.

Beer in Dublin, day 1

Dublin is definitely a city which takes its beer seriously.

Itinerary: Monday 20th July, Day Two

Full breakfast arranged from 7.30am

Guided bus tour arranged meet at the front of the hotel at 9.00am.
(tour approx. 2-3hrs with stops)
(do remember to pack vestments and music)

Dublin

Even in 140 A.D. Ptolemy observed that Eblana was a place of note. Ptolemy refers to the river Liffey as Oboka, meaning a delta. It was however not until 840 A.D. that Norse sea rovers landed here and built a base for their maritime expeditions that the area really began to develop as a town. The history of the area is really tied to the history of Ireland, never really settled, just like the name, the Irish called it Duibhlinn, the Norse called it Dyfflin, and the Anglo Normans Dublinne from which the present name derives.

A city steeped in history, it as fine wide streets, squares and parks with wonderful examples of Georgian architecture.

With the tour completed by approx. 11.45am., drop group with vestments and music at St Patrick’s cathedral.

Time to see the vergers and store music and vestments.

St Patrick’s Cathedral

Dedicated in 1192, the cathedral was originally built by the Norman, archbishop Comyn. This early Norman church was rebuilt in the first half of the 13th century, the building we see today.

Many interesting aspects to see, including the medieval chapter house door with an hole in it dating from 1492. It gives rise to the English phrase "chancing your arm".

The earl of Kildare cut the hole and through it stretched out his arm to grasp the hand of his enemy the earl of Ormond. By taking the initiative peace was restored between them and ever since the door as been known as the door of reconciliation.

Handel’s Messiah received its first performance in Dublin in 1742 sung by the combined choirs of St Patrick’s & Christ Church Cathedral`s.

After arranging storage of vestments etc coach will return group to the Harding Hotel, leaving St Patrick’s at approx. 12.30pm.

Lunch own arrangements

All choristers return to St Patrick’s cathedral by 3.30pm. Time to arrange rehearsals etc. Rehearsal in the cathedral choir stalls 4.00pm – 5.30pm.

Evensong service at 5.45pm

On completion of the service all choristers return to the hotel. Short walk approx. 8/10 minutes.

Evening meal own arrangements

Day 1

Sunday 19th July Day One

Arrive Dublin International Airport on Aer Lingus 132 at approx. 7.30am
Leaving passport control & luggage area, ready to depart by 9.15am

The journey from the airport into the city is not great (approx 7 miles) but with early morning traffic this could take 30/40 minutes.

Arrive centre of the city by approx. 10.00am

8-night stay at the Harding hotel.
Good quality 2-star hotel with all en-suite rooms, colour t/v and tea/coffee making facilities in each room and adjoining Irish bar.

Superbly situated next to Christ Church cathedral and just 7/8 minutes walk from St Patrick’s Cathedral, yet only 5 minutes walk from Temple Bar and 6/8 minutes walk from Trinity College/Grafton Street and central Dublin.

Time to unload and book in if possible (dependent on time of arrival)

We may need to lose some time in the city prior to arriving at the hotel: it all depends on when rooms are ready.

Lunch own arrangements

Rest of the afternoon to wander and acclimatise with the city.

Evening meal own arrangements.

Choir Ireland Trip 2009

News and updates on the July 2009 trip to Ireland being made by the Choir of Christ Church of Hamilton/Wenham.